Kategorie: News
Diving in the Coiba National Park
If you talk about Panama many people first think of black money accounts or drug smugglers. The more positive ones think of the tiger duck (which never existed, but was often searched for ...) [Editorial note: The tiger duck (Tigerente) including the trip to Panama comes from a German children's book by the author Janosch] or the canal, which is a miracle of technology with its locks. Only the fewest can make a connection between Panama and tourism or even scuba diving.
A short research on the internet shows, however, that there is a diving area here. One which on certain sites is even lifted to a level with Galapagos, Cocos or Malpelo. Exaggerated? We wanted, no, had to research that. The name of this diving area? Coiba!
Panama City can be reached relatively easily with various airlines from Central Europe. From there you can get to the "mysterious group of islands" in several ways. Either with public busses, accompanied by many local folk songs and with relatively much time expenditure but inexpensive. Or with a rental car, which also does not cost a fortune, but of course is more expensive than public transport. Of course, having your own car also offers much more flexibility, such as the option to take a detour simply because of the faster progress and to see outstanding and touristically largely unknown landscapes. Don't underestimate the last 15 kilometers to the small town of Santa Catalina. While the roads usually have potholes and bumps from time to time, the last kilometers are really a string of road obstacles. The village "Santa Catalina" was originally a pure fishing village, in the course of time it has developed into a paradise for surfers and divers.
Gateway to the Coiba World Heritage Site
The paradise for divers is that the small village is currently the gateway to the Coiba World Heritage Site. After about eight hours of driving (with one or the other detour e.g. via Vale Anton) we arrive in St. Catalina in the late afternoon and meet directly with Herbert Sunk, the founder and owner of "Scuba Coiba". Afterwards we discuss the possibilities and make plans for the coming days.
Herbie describes to us in clear pictures what you can see in the Coiba National Park. Every now and then we lean back and question the announced encounters. So much one expects perhaps in Cocos or on Galapagos but in the small provincial Panama?
Already on the next day this scepticism is really put to the test. On the first day of diving there are - as on the following days - repeated encounters with whitetip reef sharks. Every now and then you can see a whitetip around the world, but on almost every dive? On top of that we meet a guitar shark directly at the first dive! Also, the "nurseries" of the whitetips can be found again and again. While we bring the camera to the stop, we are observed sceptically from a crevice under the rocks by the dwarfs.
Of course, other marine life can also be found in this diving area. For example, all kinds of moray eels. Rays? Some species: stingrays, all kinds of electric rays (tremor rays) and many more.
We quickly get used to the daily rhythm. In the morning towards Coiba either the "near" targets or the more distant "contreras". The southern (near) side of the park takes about an hour to reach, the northern contreras at least an hour and a half. You can never say exactly, because the weather can be changeable depending on the time of year and clearly affects the plans and also the arrival times.
Defective flashlight and hammerhead shark on the Contreras
Why should one go to the more distant Contreras? The answer is relatively simple. In the months of May - June hammerhead sharks are sighted here again and again. And indeed! On each of our dives in the north we encounter the fish with the bizarrely shaped heads. What spoils our mood in the meantime? The flash of our camera has failed! Thus, the external flashes can no longer be triggered and without light under water is the real nightmare of every underwater photographer.
So photography in the coming days turns out to be very exhausting. Until then, actually rather by chance - because you have lost the group - during the ascent the hammerhead shark suddenly passes so close to you that you can even provide sufficient lighting with focus light.
By the way, experienced divers are allowed to dive alone in a buddy team, depending on conditions, dive center and dive site.
Experience is a key word regarding diving here. Some local dive centers specialize in "dragging" rather under-experienced divers through the water. And no dive center can afford to cover the long distances with a half full boat. However, it is for this very reason that we recommend that you really look at the adventure here with some diving experience. Currents can occur as well as miserable visibility due to thermoclines. However, also bathtub with 30 meters visibility and all that in one dive! The diving center should be chosen based on your own wishes and contacted in advance and not like many of the backpackers staying in the place for a few days simply as walk-in customers. An experienced diver wants to go out every day and not only once in three days.
We were about to describe the other possible animal encounters and got bogged down with general info? Sorry, of course there is still the chance of many more... for example eagle rays: We had them right on the first day of diving. Turtles actually every day, although we quickly realize that the normally relaxed animals here are not so enthusiastic about our approach. Also a whale shark is sighted by us, although we are already here out of season; unfortunately only a short moment on the surface.
Mobulas? Not the optimal time anymore but nevertheless we had the pleasure to encounter big schools twice. Unforgotten is the safety stop at the dive site "Sombrero": First a school of mobulas and while we start the stop from the beginning a huge school of barracudas. Shoal fish altogether were plentiful in the marine reserve.
Coiba is a destination for big fish
So now our report is already on its way to the editor and we take another look at the photos. What we noticed? We have forgotten animals! For example the bull sharks - why? The little crooks were always hiding in the murkiest soup and even if you were really close, the photos don't make a difference.
The other "forgotten ones"? Well Coiba is a target for big fish. Neither a Harlequin Shrimp nor a Longnose Hawkfish (Oxycirrhites typus) fit the target and also the frogfishes are not really expected now. We could see everything repeatedly, but because of the wide angle we could only photograph the Lanabü [Editorial note: Lanabü is the affectionate short description used by German-speaking divers for the Longnose Hawkfish] and the frogfish. The guides and also other fellow divers asked me after the Lanabü what I had photographed. The enthusiasm for the Lanabü seems to be more of a German phenomenon, here it is largely unknown. I have not seen as many as in Coiba in Egypt.
The distances to the dive site and the fact that it is a marine protected area make the dives here relatively expensive compared to other destinations. But compared to the already mentioned destinations of the category Galapagos and Co., Coiba is still a cheap option.
Basically, however, you should take into account the local weather and tourism situation when planning your trip. While the diving is said to be excellent and with whale encounters even in September, for example, the rainy season ensures little tourism and tougher conditions. Here Herbie is already working on an alternative - more about this in the following interview.
Hotel "Sol y mar"
During our much too short time here, we lived in the hotel "Sol y mar". The small hotel complex is located a little outside the town and thus quieter. The rooms are air-conditioned and spacious and leave nothing to be desired. You can eat in the "Sol y mar" as well as in the many restaurants in town, of course, traditionally a lot of fish and seafood is offered, but also beef and poultry are no problem.
As so often during a trip, our time on site passes too quickly. On our way back we visit the locks "Miraflores" at the Panama Canal. Surely a very touristy pleasure, but if you are already in Panama City, you should definitely treat yourself to this.
What remains after our two weeks here? We still don't understand why this country is not known for tourism and diving tourism. Beautiful landscapes, exciting dives with special marine animals and all in all probably one of the last real adventures. We for our part agree, we will try the other travel times and maybe try to get a big enough group of like-minded people together for the rainy season.
Interview Herbie Sunk Scuba Coiba
JF: Hello Herbie, since hardly anything is known about Panama and diving, my first question directly, why do you think that is?
HS: Yes, it's a pity because here with Coiba we are one of the cornerstones of the Tropical East Pacific Corridor that connects Galapagos, Cocos Islands, Malpelo and Coiba. People know about the other island groups, but hardly know about Coiba. The last three governments have failed to promote Panama as a destination. It has been promoted mainly as a business destination, convention center and financial services center, all in Panama City. The vast natural beauty of the rest of the country, the rainforests, 2,500 km of coastline on both sides (Caribbean and Pacific), the different cultures and their traditions have been forgotten. Panama is comparable (nature, population) with Costa Rica, but Costa Rica is known and 10 times more tourists travel there.
JF: You can hardly find anything on the net about the individual seasonal highlights. As far as I understood correctly, you have a small and a big rainy season? How do temperatures and weather develop over the year?
HS: The official dry season begins in mid-December and ends in mid-April. The rainy season starts in May and ends in November (coincides with the Caribbean hurricane season). August is one of the driest months of the rainy season, with the most rain falling in mid-September to mid-November. It is between warm and hot (on the coast) year-round, May and June are very humid.
Weather phenomena such as La Niña or El Niño shift the times by one or two months. So far this year there has been no rain.
The dry season is initiated by northerly winds that blow clouds and surface water off the land. In January, cool and nutrient-rich water slowly begins to come toward the surface. This brings cooler water and also cloudier visibility due to algae and microorganisms, but also more pelagic life and plankton feeders (whale sharks, manta rays, devil rays). The coldest months are March to early/mid April. Temperatures at depth can drop below 20°C. At the surface, temperatures are 27° to 29°C year-round.
In May, the cool, turbid water sinks to the bottom. The temperature at 30 meters is still around 27°C. In short, the rainy season offers better visibility and warmer water than the dry season. Since Coiba is a good distance from the mainland, visibility is rarely affected by mainland rivers.
JF: Are the species encountered also different and when is the best time for what?
HS: We have "native" animals that can be found year-round: Whitetip reef sharks virtually on every dive even in groups, whale sharks around full moon, bull sharks, stingrays, eagle rays, several species of turtles, schools of jacks, barracudas, snappers, batfish, dolphins and colorful reef fish.
Seasonally you can see:
Mobulas / Devil rays January to May.
Groups of hammerhead sharks (almost only at special seamounts in the north of the national park) April to June/July
Pelagic stingrays February to May
Humpback whales July to October
Orcas we've had the last 3 years late June to late July.
JF: You mentioned that you have another "special" coming up, what can you tell us about it and who is it primarily for?
HS: Coiba is the only group of islands in the Tropical East Pacific Corridor that can be dived in a day trip from land, boat trips from Santa Catalina to Coiba are about 1 to 1:20 hours. For many serious divers who want to dive for several days, this can be a bit tiring. Accommodations in fishing villages closer to the national park are very basic and not right for all visitors. We are offering multi-day packages starting in the summer of 2023, with overnight accommodations in a former laboratory site on a private island just 10 minutes from the park boundary. We rent comfortable rooms there, all equipped with private hot water bath and air conditioning. The island also has various beaches and nature trails. This "special" is arranged for experienced and serious divers who want to dive for several days, also in places too far away for day boats, who also prefer comfortable accommodation and want to avoid the long boat trips between Coiba and Santa Catalina.
Starting in December, we also plan to offer our "Ocean 2 Ocean" package again, combining diving at the Caribbean and diving around Coiba, 6 days, 5 nights, 10 dives in both seas.
JF: Let's question another issue at the end. The national park does have a rather high fee at $20 per day. The presence of the rangers is noticeable in the central part, but hardly noticeable in the more remote parts like the Contreras. Will the money be used to advance other projects in the park?
HS: That's a very good question. Coiba National Park is managed through its own law, it also has a thick "Management Plan", visitors pay USD 20.00 per day entrance fee and boats pay a mooring fee, our dive boats for example pay USD 30.00 per day.
According to the management plan and the law, part of this (and other) revenue is supposed to go to the surrounding communities to build, or improve infrastructure for soft tourism, give lectures, fund conservation projects - etc. to give the population an incentive to protect Coiba. Most of the revenue is intended to pay park rangers, maintain or improve infrastructure on Coiba, keep trails and beaches clean, have gasoline for boat patrols, maintain and repair mooring buoys for dive and snorkel boats, etc. But in reality, the revenue goes into the general treasury, Coiba and his park rangers see little of it, and the surrounding communities see nothing.
JF: Thank you for the interview and your time!
HS: Thank you and I hope that Coiba and its spectacular diving will soon become better known here.
Scuba Coiba at Interdive 2023
Herbie Sunk will be present with Scuba Coiba at Interdive 2023 in Friedrichshafen with his own booth. If you are interested in this still unknown, but fascinating travel destination with its immense natural beauty and the great diving areas, you will find a competent contact person in Herbie who is looking forward to your visit.
More information:
Scuba Coiba Website
Scuba Coiba on Taucher.Net