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Maike from the Taucher.Net team visited the Fuvahmulah Dive School in May, in the middle of the rainy season
Continuation of Part 1 about the visit to the Fuvahmulah Dive School run by Tatiana and Ibrahim (Panda). Fuvahmulah is located just south of the equator. This location creates unique underwater conditions, and the island is known as a diving destination for encounters with large fish and for its biodiversity.
Report by Maike Pohl
According to the dive center, tiger sharks can be spotted here daily throughout the year; the center advertises a “100-percent tiger shark guarantee.” That’s why divers from all over the world travel here every year, sometimes going to great lengths to do so. During our stay, for example, Wayne from Australia dived with us – it had taken him four days to get there.
As it turned out over the course of the week we spent together, he had seen a post by the dive center on Facebook mentioning the guarantee. After a quick look at the website, he booked his trip within three days because he was convinced he’d be in good hands at the first dive center he came across. As a dive director and former dive center owner with more than 25,000 logged dives, he knows the industry well. He was impressed by the reliability, safety, well-coordinated team, and organization of the Fuvahmulah Dive School.
The Tiger Zoo has become a sort of pilgrimage site for shark enthusiasts. However, anyone expecting a chaotic spectacle will be surprised: the process is structured and controlled.
A Strictly Regulated Dive Site
Each of the 14 dive centers is assigned a fixed time slot daily for the Tiger Zoo to ensure that not too many groups are at the site at the same time. A detailed briefing is held before the dive. It covers not only the underwater procedure but also the behavior of tiger sharks, their body language, possible reactions, and the most important rules of conduct. For many guests, this is their first dive with tiger sharks, so their attention and excitement are understandably high. The guides clearly explained the inherent risks and how to minimize them. This builds trust.
The Debate Over Shark Feeding
Hardly any topic is discussed as controversially among divers as so-called “shark feeding,” and opinions vary even regarding the Tiger Zoo. In conversations with guides, the research team, and locals, I gained a more nuanced understanding than what social media and similar sources had previously conveyed to me. I was skeptical at first and thought, “I’ll do one dive just to be able to join the conversation, but that’s it.” Between the briefing for the first dive and the second dive, my attitude changed, and I gained a much better understanding of the concept.
According to the dive center, the fish scraps used come exclusively from local fishermen. Most of them are tuna heads, which are a byproduct of fish processing anyway. In the past, such scraps were simply thrown overboard when the boats set sail; today, they are distributed to the dive centers in a controlled manner. There is a clear limit: each dive center is allotted only a small number of fish heads. Underwater, they are never fed by hand. The guides place them on the seafloor or between rocks, and the sharks seek them out on their own. This mimics the animals’ natural foraging behavior, as sharks not only actively hunt but also feed on dead or weakened animals, thereby fulfilling a role in the ecosystem. In my view, the dives and the guidelines take this natural behavior into account well.
Critics fear that regular fish scraps will accustom sharks to humans, alter their natural behavior, and increase the risk of incidents. The dive center disagrees. The sharks had been feeding on fish scraps from the harbor long before dive tourism began; the center has merely made this visible. “We don’t feed the sharks. They eat – they’ve always done so. We just come and watch,” says Tatiana. They do not feed the sharks by hand, and according to the dive center, they do not provide any additional food. They had already developed a safety protocol back in 2018.
My First Tiger Shark
Then came the moment of the descent. The first time, your heart really pounds. We reached the concrete blocks, positioned ourselves on the seabed, and held on to the handholds. The visibility was excellent. Suddenly, the first shadow appeared – at first far away, then closer, and finally right in front of us: my first tiger shark. Animals of this size look completely different underwater than they do in photos – more massive and imposing. The shark glided slowly and calmly through the water, almost majestically. In the first few minutes, awe and fascination alternated, but the longer I watched the animals, the more my tension eased. The sharks weren’t interested in us; their focus was on the fish scraps on the seafloor.
The Truth About Tiger Sharks
Tiger sharks have a dubious reputation. For decades, movies, media reports, and headlines have shaped the image of the dangerous man-eater. What I experienced on site was different. Tiger sharks owe their name to the dark stripes on their bodies, which, however, fade with age. They’re also considered energy-efficient animals that prefer easy prey and avoid unnecessary effort. That’s why the Tiger Zoo works: the animals follow an easily accessible food source. I noticed how little interest they showed in the divers. Tiger sharks remain large predators, however, and respect is essential. That’s why Fuvahmulah places great emphasis on briefings, rules, and experienced guides. I was pleased to see that the animals aren’t touched or even turned over. Only when necessary do the guides gently steer them in a different direction. This is also clearly stated in the briefing.
Twenty Tiger Sharks at Once
I experienced one of the most impressive dives a few days later. Even before we reached the actual site, the first tiger sharks appeared in the blue water, and then their numbers kept growing. By the end, there were probably about twenty tiger sharks swimming around us at the same time.
As always, several guides secured the group and positioned themselves in front of, behind, and above us. They kept an eye on both the sharks and the divers. After several days of diving together, I knew how attentively the team worked and was able to focus on taking photos, videos, and simply enjoying the moment.
According to the dive center, only female tiger sharks are observed at Tiger Zoo; the males remain in the open ocean. According to the local shark research organization “Fuvahmulah Shark Research” – an NGO that Tatiana and Panda founded based on data they collected during their daily dives – the largest tiger shark measured at the site to date was approximately 4.5 to 4.9 meters long. The shark’s name is Rose, and she’s known as “Big Mama Rose.”
The Guides’ Work
While many people immediately associate tiger sharks with danger, the guides appeared remarkably calm underwater. The team seemed to know each individual shark almost personally. With small gestures and precise movements, the guides directed the animals’ attention and made sure everyone kept a safe distance. Still, there was room for a smile behind the mask. This blend of professionalism and composure made the encounters enjoyable.
Tiger Wall – A Perfect Finale
My last dive didn’t take place directly at the Tiger Zoo, but at the Tiger Wall, a dive site along the reef edge surrounding the Tiger Zoo. Perhaps this dive was my personal favorite. Here, the sharks moved freely in the blue water, surfacing from the depths, gliding along the reef edge, disappearing, and reappearing a few minutes later. It felt more natural and unforced, almost as if we were visiting the animals in their natural habitat.
More Than Just a Dive Site
In the end, I understood why the Tiger Zoo has such a special reputation worldwide. The tiger sharks play the leading role, but just as important are the people behind the scenes: experienced guides, a safety protocol, and research. This includes the understanding that the animals can only be preserved in the long term if they are protected. Sharks are sometimes referred to as the “health police of the sea.”
From the community’s perspective, the Tiger Zoo is also a win-win situation: dive tourism contributes significantly to the prosperity of Fuvahmulah’s population, and the island serves as an example of how shark diving can boost the local economy and promote shark conservation – in line with the mission of organizations like Project AWARE.
The Heart of the Trip
For me, the heart of this trip isn’t underwater, but on land. What sets the Fuvahmulah Dive School apart from many other dive destinations is the close connection between dive tourism, education, research, and conservation. Many destinations promote sustainability and marine conservation, but on Fuvahmulah, I experienced this connection in the day-to-day operations of the dive center. It’s not just about facilitating encounters, but also about gaining a better understanding of the animals. That’s what Fuvahmulah Shark Research stands for.
From Diving Pioneers to Researchers
When Tatiana and Ibrahim “Panda” began exploring the waters around Fuvahmulah many years ago, there was neither a dive center nor any scientific projects. At first, their fascination with the underwater world took center stage. However, their regular encounters with tiger sharks, hammerhead sharks, and other pelagic species soon raised questions:
Why do the animals stay here?
Where do they come from?
How long do they stay?
Are they always the same individuals?
And what role does Fuvahmulah play in their life cycle?
These questions led to the development of the research center, which, in my view, is one of the most exciting projects of its kind in the Maldives.
The Research Team
Tatiana and Panda recognized Fuvahmulah’s potential early on. Alongside their daily dives, they began collecting data and used it to establish the NGO and the research center with a team of researchers. According to the center, it posted its first job opening for a marine biologist in 2021 and received its first government research permit. Since then, there has always been a marine biologist on the team; the fourth is now working there. Since last year, the center has also been hosting a marine biology intern every month to help analyze the data. According to the base, the research is funded by its ongoing diving operations and with support from its guests.
During our stay, Tatiana, Panda, and the current marine biologist, Max Kimble, returned from an international shark symposium in Colombo – a sign that the team’s work is recognized beyond Fuvahmulah. Max regularly takes time to give presentations and have discussions with guests. We attended a presentation (in English) and listened with interest. This presentation – indeed, the entire diving vacation – was not just about seeing sharks, but about understanding them:
How does a tiger shark population develop?
What role do female sharks play in the area?
How do pregnant sharks behave?
Why do some individuals keep reappearing in the same locations year after year?
These are questions that recreational divers rarely ask themselves, but which are studied here on a daily basis.
Every Shark Is an Individual
I found the photo-identification project particularly interesting – an ongoing monitoring effort of tiger sharks that forms the foundation for all future tiger shark research on Fuvahmulah. Every tiger shark has unique characteristics, similar to a human fingerprint, which allow individual animals to be clearly identified. According to the research team, the database now includes more than 330 registered tiger sharks. Every new sighting is documented, and changes are recorded daily:
– Injuries
– Scars
– Pregnancies
– Migratory movements
Over time, this provides a more accurate picture of the animals’ lives. “A tiger shark” becomes an individual with its own story, its own unique characteristics, and sometimes even a name. For me, this shift in perspective was one of the most exciting aspects of the trip.
High-Tech in the Depths
To better study the animals, the team operates several permanently installed underwater stations around the island. High-resolution camera systems are deployed there, typically remaining at depths of 40 to 60 meters for about three days. Special housings protect the cameras from pressure and saltwater (according to the team, a set including the housing and equipment costs over 2,000 euros). After a few days, the systems are retrieved, the data is analyzed, and the cameras are deployed again.
The footage provides insights into the behavior, habitats, and activity patterns of various species. Thresher sharks, tiger sharks, manta rays, and other large fish regularly appeared in front of the lenses. According to the team, this has led to new research approaches. Since 2021, the team has also been conducting its own project on thresher sharks using underwater cameras, as the center reports. The team reports encounters with manta rays to the Manta Trust and whale shark sightings to Whale Shark Research in South Ari Atoll.
Hands-On Science
The research doesn’t take place behind closed doors – guests are actively involved. There are regular lectures, discussion groups, and presentations that not only showcase findings but also address open questions, challenges, and current projects. You can feel the team’s enthusiasm, and it rubs off on the guests. Many divers come for the tiger sharks and leave the island with a deeper understanding of these animals.
Why Sharks Are Essential to Our Oceans
Another key focus of the talks was the ecological importance of sharks. In many places, they are still perceived as dangerous predators. As apex predators, they help keep populations healthy and stabilize natural balances. They remove sick or weakened animals from the population, thereby indirectly contributing to the health of entire ecosystems. If sharks disappear, these systems can become unbalanced. That’s why research is important – because only what is understood can be protected in the long term.
A Family Rather Than a Business
During our stay, it became clear that the Fuvahmulah Dive School is more than just a dive center. The team acts like a family, both in their interactions with guests and, above all, with one another. In conversation, the team expressed concerns about the impact of the Hormuz crisis on tourism in the Maldives. The backdrop to this is the tension in the Middle East surrounding the Strait of Hormuz: it has disrupted and increased the cost of flights through Gulf hubs, which is also having a noticeable impact on the Maldives. The center reports cancellations but is nevertheless standing by its team. “Our employees have families,” Tatiana said in a conversation. “When things get tough, we have to get through this time together.”
This has been standard practice for years, the center reports – for example, at the start of the off-season or during the COVID-19 lockdown: All employees remain on the payroll and receive their salaries, ensuring they can support themselves and their families even when there are hardly any guests on the island. From the center’s perspective, the rainy season still has many positive aspects underwater; according to them, these include encounters with manta rays and whale sharks. “The team is the key to success,” say owners Tatiana and Ibrahim.
The Team – and Shimee
When I think of Fuvahmulah today, I think of tiger sharks, but that’s not all. I think of the dive center’s team: Johnny, who always had a smile behind his mask even during challenging dives; Panda, who knows the waters around the island very well; Max, who explains scientific concepts in an easy-to-understand way; and Tatiana and Jeanette, who work at the center in a friendly and professional manner – as well as the entire team around them.
And Shimee, Panda’s yellow-crested cockatoo, who’s part of the dive center’s team. Shimee became a bit of a celebrity during our stay. He can say “Hello” and “Goodbye,” but he also screeches and laughs shrilly, which is a bit jarring at first. Sometimes he curiously observes the goings-on around the base; other times he’s on the boat with us during a dive trip. After just a few days, he had simply become part of the experience for many guests.
A Tiger Shark Tooth and a New Perspective
When Panda gave me the tiger shark tooth as a gift years ago at BOOT, I considered it an extraordinary souvenir. Today, it stands for more: for an island in the middle of the Indian Ocean; for people who work with a passion for research, conservation, and education; for a team on land and on the ship that shares its enthusiasm for the underwater world; for Tatiana and Panda, who had the courage to build something new on Fuvahmulah; for Max and the research team; and, of course, for the animals themselves. The tooth now hangs on a chain around my neck. It no longer reminds me just of a shark, but of an extraordinary journey and the realization that exciting stories often begin where curiosity meets knowledge.
Conclusion
Most people who travel to Fuvahmulah do so for the tiger sharks, and many come for the Tiger Zoo. But the island offers more: a welcoming atmosphere, great diving (freediving is also possible at the center), a dedicated team, and one of the most interesting shark research projects in the Maldives. This combination made my visit there more than just a diving vacation for me. It was a journey toward understanding a species that our oceans desperately need.
More Information:
Website Fuvahmulah Dive School
Fuvahmulah Dive School on Taucher.Net
Part-1 A Visit to the Fuvahmulah Dive School