Jordan

A diving holiday with many highlights

My airport transfer has reached the city limits of Aqaba. The first striking impression is the 60x30 metre flag of the ‘Great Arab Revolt’ flying above the historic old town. The colours of the flag contrast with the reddish-beige scenery formed by the mountains and houses...

Report and pictures by Erik Hesse

Shortly after passing the old town, I have a panoramic view of the mountains of Sinai with the cities of Taba and Eilat at their foot. We continue along the South Beach Highway to the beach of the same name, where my journey ends at the Red Sea Dive Centre. The dive centre is located in a section of the 27 km long Jordanian coast where most of the dive sites are located.

At the centre, I am warmly welcomed by Abdullah and move into my room near the pool, which promises a welcome cool-down. The centre offers beach and boat dives, snorkelling trips, equipment hire, accommodation, organises complete diving packages to Jordan and provides many services outside of diving to keep guests happy. The atmosphere is very friendly, relaxed and informal. After a short period of acclimatisation, I set off with Hamzah for my first diving highlight: a stand-up dive to the Lockheed C 130 Hercules.

Lockheed C 130 and M42 Duster tank

We take a southerly course over the reef. After a short time, the aircraft wreck appears in front of me at a depth of 16 metres. The front section and the wingspan alone are impressive. Through the windows, my gaze wanders into the spacious cockpit, where schools of glass fish have settled and are moving in the play of light from the setting sun. I feel like I'm standing in front of an aquarium!

I am drawn further towards the rear. Beneath the majestically towering tail fin is the cargo hatch. Where cargo or parachutists once took their places, lionfish now live in search of prey. The wreck was deliberately sunk on 16 November 2017 to create a new reef. The middle section of the hull collapsed during a storm, but the wreck has not lost its appeal.

The way back takes me over the reef to the M42 Duster tank. This is the most famous diving attraction in Aqaba. It stands at a depth of six metres and is an ideal destination for a safety stop or for beginner dives. With its niches and cavities, it provides a habitat for many fish and nudibranchs.

I spend the evening in the old town. After visiting the Aqaba Museum and the fortress, I enjoy Jordanian food and the view of Egypt and Israel at night from a bar in the Royal Yacht Club.

Cedar Pride

Today's section of the beach, with its palm trees, parasols and sanitary facilities, attracts snorkelers, divers and bathers alike. I change under a sun pavilion and fear that there will be a rush of divers at the wreck of the Cedar Pride. The wreck lies between the Japanese Garden and Rainbow Reef. Two really beautiful reefs where the divers spread out generously. I dive along the edge of the reef. After about 130 metres, the bow of the wreck appears dimly in front of me.

The closer I get to the wreck, the clearer the approximately 75-metre-long Cedar Pride becomes, lying on its port side. The depth is between 7 and 26 metres. The Lebanese freighter caught fire in the port of Aqaba in 1982. In 1985, it was sunk as an artificial reef for divers. I dive around the mast basket, past the winches into the holds. The usual remora fish are hiding here. I continue my way through the holds. The wreck is preserved in one piece.

I am so overwhelmed by all the impressions that I don't even notice the other marine fauna during my first dive. After reaching the photogenic stern, I make my way back to the reef via the rudder, propeller and funnel. I am completely thrilled by the wreck and the fact that there are no other diving groups at this special dive site.

The Rainbow Reef

I am doing my second dive today at the Rainbow Reef. It got its name because coral fields and sand strips alternate continuously. As on the other reefs, I discover the usual ‘red sea suspects’ here. Moray eels, butterfly fish, lionfish and related species have found a home in the corals and reef blocks. My attention now turns to Cable Reef, a canyon where power cables are laid to provide electricity between Jordan and Egypt. The reef walls are secured against each other with iron supports to prevent collapse. I follow a turtle that shows me the dimensions of the canyon.

In the evening, I ask the dive centre to take me to Tala Bay Marina. Here, a paradise of hotels, restaurants and a large marina has been created on 30,000 square metres. I enjoy the view of the yachts over a drink, then do some shopping in the supermarket and decide to make my way back via the public beaches. It is now dark, the air is pleasantly warm and smells of barbecued meat. The beaches are populated by locals who are celebrating, praying or listening to music. Only a few children take any notice of me. There are no annoying salespeople or pushy advertisers for restaurants here.

Underwater Military Museum

After breakfast at the dive centre, I stow my equipment in the trailer of the minibus, which shortly afterwards reaches the sign ‘Shore Dive Access Point’ on the beach. I first dive down to seven metres to a Willis MB Jeep and follow the slope down to fifteen metres. I approach a parade of military vehicles lined up in rows of two. Among other things, reconnaissance vehicles, anti-aircraft tanks and armoured recovery vehicles simulate a battle formation.

I take a moment to look at each tank. These are vehicles that were still in service with the Jordanian army until 2000. On closer inspection, I discover another highlight among the wrecks: a magnificent specimen of a frogfish hiding on a tank. I then continue on to a Bell AH-IF Cobra combat helicopter, which I inspect closely. During one dive, I saw 21 wrecks – a personal record for me!

In the coming years, the wrecks on the former sandy seabed at this dive site will become home to more fish, as will the adjacent area, which has been fitted with artificial reef blocks.

Wadi Rum

It would be a shame to spend all my time in Jordan underwater. After an hour's drive, I reach Wadi Rum, the rocky and sandy desert in south-eastern Jordan. It is Jordan's largest wadi, measuring 100 km long and 60 km wide. With its impressive natural landscape, it has been a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 2011 and is a magnet for tourists.

A Bedouin drives me through bizarre rock formations and sand dunes in his jeep, showing me ancient rock carvings, great photo opportunities and the sunset in the desert. The former film set of the desert planet Pasaana from Star Wars really impressed me. In addition to jeep tours, hiking, camel riding and balloon rides are also offered. I end the evening in a Bedouin camp with a traditional Bedouin meal.

Lockheed Tristar

Abdullah has reached the Royal Yacht Club in Aqaba City with his pickup truck. I climb into his diving boat, which can accommodate 10 divers. We drive past the backdrop of the city centre, the beaches and the large flag, heading for the old harbour. This is where a Lockheed L-1011 Tristar found its final resting place in 2019. I dive straight down to the stern at a depth of 29 metres and circle around the vertical stabiliser before entering the stewardesses' preparation room through the rear door. Through a hole in the ceiling, I enter the intake duct of the third engine and have a real ‘tunnel vision’ as I surface.

I dive back into the interior and notice that the middle rows of seats have been removed to make room for divers. This immediately reminds me of the holiday flights I took on the Tristar in the 1980s. Now the sun's rays fall diagonally through the windows, creating a play of blue and yellow colours in the interior, in which fish are darting about.

I follow the rows of seats to the cockpit. As a pilot, I have to make do with two batfish who are still waiting for their on-board mechanic. Now it's time to head for shallower waters. My path leads me to the old harbour. It is supported by a cluster of pillars which, in combination with the sun's rays, create a mystical atmosphere. I feel like I'm diving through an enchanted forest where a unicorn could appear around the corner at any moment.

Petra

One of the reasons I travelled to Jordan was to see Petra, the former capital of the Nabataeans. I am happy to forego my underwater experiences today for this. I follow the path from the Visitor Centre past the Djinn (tomb) blocks and the Obelisk Tomb and make my way towards the Siq. In this narrow gorge, where the steep rock faces constantly draw my gaze upwards, I walk past the remains of the former paving stones, old water channels and caper bushes until I can already see one of the main attractions from the crevice of the canyon: Al-Khazneh.
 
I know the treasure chamber carved into the rock from several documentaries and am impressed by its dimensions! Now I think that I have actually seen everything worth seeing. But the path continues past the sacrificial site to the theatre, whose architecture follows that of Roman theatres and was largely carved out of the rock. After a short climb to the royal tombs, a Bedouin persuades me to continue my journey on his donkey. At 37 degrees and in the blazing sun, I am glad to have accepted his offer. We pass the Colonnaded Street and the large temple. Then there is a seemingly endless climb to Ad Deir, the monastery. I have to walk the last few metres of the climb and am rewarded with a breathtaking view of the mountains and the monastery.

My conclusion: Jordan scores with a variety of underwater attractions. The people are natural, warm and unobtrusive. Beach life is dominated by the local population and offers a natural oriental atmosphere where there is no fighting over towels on sun loungers. Anyone travelling to Aqaba should not miss Petra and Wadi Rum.
I would go back to Jordan for a holiday anytime!

Further information:
Jordan on Taucher.Net
Red Sea Dive Centre
Tourist information for Jordan

Video: magnificent specimen of a frogfish hiding on a tank