Kategorie: News
Mobulamania in Whale Shark Soup?
For a long time we thought about where to go this year in autumn; a reasonable diving vacation was our goal. We found what we were looking for in Europe, more precisely on the Azores island of Santa Maria. The island which promises big fish, warm water and exciting diving - and with zero corona, got our attention. Quickly it was clear to us - we have to do it!
Article by Jan Finsterbusch and Christoph Schaffelhuber
The weeks before our trip were a mix of anticipation and annoyance - anticipation when we heard about whale shark encounters on Santa Maria and annoyance when Arline TAP announced the daily flight schedule changes, eventually even making overnight stays in Lisbon before and after the onward flight to Santa Maria necessary. But good! Traveling has always been a luxury and in times of Corona even more so, we were ultimately happy to get a diving vacation in - something that unfortunately didn't work out often this year.
A reason to go into more detail about our destination: Santa Maria is the southernmost island of the Azores and is also called the "sun island". Why this name? We have not been able to confirm this, but we also did not want to sunbathe, but dive. In addition, Portugal shows a comparatively positive development in terms of corona and the Azores, have only a few or in the case of Santa Maria no case to record. [Update meanwhile unfortunately also two cases on Santa Maria].
The reason for this is, among other things, strict immigration rules. Every visitor must show a negative test result, which is not older than 72 hours before departure at the home airport. Six days after this test, you have to report to the island officials the result for a follow-up test.
Finally arrived on Santa Maria, Steffen, owner of "Wahoo Diving", explains us on the way to the divecenter all the procedures: Meeting is at the agreed time at the port of Santa Maria, where the equipment has been transported to by the divecenter; you only have to "show up" and carry your equipment to the boat.
Next we hear that the weather forecast for the coming days is not really promising. Welcome to the Azores! But that's why we deliberately booked two weeks. He also told us that the last whale shark sighting was almost a week ago… But anyway, hope springs eternal!
With clearly reduced expectations we get into the water the next day. In the protected areas around Santa Maria and at Ambrosia div site, diving is regulated. This means that only one boat is allowed to visit the dive site at a time. Therefore you don't see other divers at the sites, which we liked very much. The dive sites are registered in each case and may be visited per boat only once a day, also the number of divers allowed per boat is regulated.
The diving area around Santa Maria has many near shore sites with fascinating formations of volcanic rocks, caves, swimthroughs and grottos. The water is warm, averaging 22° to 24° Celsius. You can dive very relaxed. The highlight is the site Ambrosia, which is known far beyond Santa Maria, although it consists only of a rope anchored at a depth of 60 meters.
Everything that is around in the sea seems to visit us – we just have to stay near the rope. After about ten minutes of relaxed waiting, the first dark shadows appear below us. Again and again you can see bright fin seams flashing around, and there are many of them. Even better, this crowd is moving directly towards us! Mobulas! Not a single one, a big swarm. Within a minute, all the divers are scattered. Some hang relaxed on the line, the more experienced stay in the area around the rope. And then they are there. Everyone, whether on the rope or free in the water, finds a new buddy in the form of a mobula under the watchful eyes of Steffen. The magic lasts about half an hour, during which every diver can get up close and personal with the close relatives of the manta rays. Then, as if on command, the "Stealth Bombers of the seas" retreat again. No matter! Every diver has a happy grin on his face during the trip back home. And Steffen again shows his light smile while he asks us if we want to go directly to Ambrosia again? Yes of course - again and again!
During our second dive at this underwater mountain there are hardly any mobulas. Not even 30 minutes later. Typical Azores! Changeable and unstable but always good for a surprise. And this is exactly what we see. Another dark spot, which quickly approaches and turns out to be a whale shark. The giant of the seas takes short notice of us small divers and then disappears again in the vastness of the ocean.
On our second dive at this underwater mountain there are hardly any mobulas to be seen. Not even 30 minutes later. Typical Azores! Changeable and unstable but always good for a surprise. And this is exactly what we see. Another dark spot, which quickly approaches and turns out to be a whale shark. Activity has slowed down. The giant of the seas briefly takes note of us small divers and then disappears again in the vastness of the ocean.
Diving day one is over and already time for a short happy conclusion. Realistically seen: Just because of the mobulas and the whale shark - the trip was worth it. What comes now is encore. The Azores turn out to be extremely varied, just like the whole journey and also the weather. Nothing can happen for 30 minutes and then end with a big bang or nothing happens. The weather can be sunny and ten minutes later produce a rain shower like you have never experienced before. Anyway, with a satisfied smile we fall asleep and look forward to the coming days.
In the following days we drive to some places close to the coast due to the weather, of which Pedrinha with lots of fish and several big barracudas is the highlight, but also Ambrosia is visited again - again with a whale shark encounter - you may hardly believe it.
Then the weather gives us a chance and we can go to one of the other hotspots. Formigas - depending on weather and wave two and a half hours away and still worth every minute of travel. As soon as we enter the water we are greeted by extremely curious and trusting groupers. Without shyness they approach us and look at us from all possible angles. Who is actually watching who? The second dive at the Formigas takes place at a steep wall. This time no groupers but barracudas and other schooling fish, which follow us partly during the whole dive. And this in crystal clear water at a wall where you can't see the bottom. Also this dive spot has its reputation for something really special. If the weather permits - you should also visit the Formigas.
On the last day we visit again Ambrosia. This time we are alone on the boat and we have 70 minutes diving time. During this time we have a whale shark encounter every ten minutes... somehow disturbing ;-) Why? We get involved with some mobulas and start a little photo shooting with them, immediately one of the giants shows up and passes by. Over and over again… Sometimes coming from the dark bottom, sometimes right at the surface and then again swimming directly towards us. Diver what do you want more?
And this is the end of our little trip to Europe’s edge. Yes, the Azores belong to Europe and are not a Corona risk area. But they are also much more than an emergency solution. Changeable and moody, but always beautiful. Basically, you should plan a little more time, especially because of the weather, if you want to see the hotspots. Island hopping is also possible with enough time. However, it is recommended to plan a two to three weeks visit.
And now at the very end we have to keep a promise to Steffen: The frequency of whale shark encounters this year was unusual. They are always around the island, but rarely so close that you see them diving as often as this year. Typical Steffen! First lower any expectations and then fully deliver. Actually sympathetic! Typical Azores!
More information:
Wahoo Diving on Taucher.Net