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What I Find Special About South Africa’s East Coast After Visiting Many Shark Dive Sites Around the World
I didn’t go to Protea Banks because I absolutely needed to add yet another shark dive site to my personal list. Actually, I thought that after many years and numerous trips, I’d have a pretty good idea of what to expect…
Report by Jannik Reisberg
I’d seen sharks in places like Indonesia, the Galápagos Islands, Costa Rica, Kenya, the Philippines, French Polynesia, Thailand, Mexico, Mozambique, and Fiji. On top of that, there were the great white sharks off the coast of South Africa. Each of these places had its own unique character.
So what surprised me so much at Protea Banks? Not an encounter with a single species of shark. Rather, it was the combination of the open ocean, different shark species, and the sheer number of animals that can appear during a single dive.
Not “just one shark swimming by”
The first thing I find different about Protea Banks is the dynamics.
On many shark dives, you wait eagerly for the moment when an animal appears. At Protea Banks, this situation can turn completely on its head: Suddenly, several sharks are there at once—and you’re no longer trying to spot a shark at all, but rather figuring out where to look first.
Bull sharks, ocean blacktips, and ragged-tooth sharks (sand tiger sharks) are among the encounters you might have. Depending on conditions and the season, you might also see hammerhead sharks—and, with a little luck, tiger sharks.
Hammerhead sharks, in particular, are an experience all their own for me. When a group emerges from the blue—rather than just a single shark swimming past you—you get a completely different impression of these animals.
At some point, I just thought to myself:
“There are so many sharks at once—I don’t even know where to look first.” That’s a problem I’m more than happy to deal with when shark diving!
Protea Banks: nothing like a typical reef dive!
Protea Banks is located about ten kilometers off Shelly Beach in the open Indian Ocean. You can feel it from the very first moment...
Even the ride out in the rubber boat through the surf is part of the overall experience. Underwater, you’re not in a protected lagoon, but in an offshore area where the conditions dictate the nature of the dive.
That’s exactly why I wouldn’t choose Protea Banks as a destination for divers looking for a relaxed, uncomplicated vacation dive.
You should have experience, feel comfortable in open water, and be confident with your equipment. Currents, depth, and the dynamics of the open ocean are all part of the experience here.
Is that a downside? For me, quite the opposite—that’s exactly where the appeal lies.
Part of the fascination comes precisely from realizing just how small you are in this environment.
Sharks change the impression they make the longer you spend with them
What I find particularly exciting about shark diving is the shift in one’s own perception. At first, you focus on the shark itself: How big is it? How close does it get? What species is it?
After a while, you start observing other things: How does the animal swim? Does it change direction? How do multiple sharks interact with one another? How calmly does an animal move, even though you yourself might be pumped full of adrenaline at that moment?
These extended observations have changed my attitude toward sharks. I didn’t just decide at some point that sharks are “not dangerous.” In my opinion, that’s the wrong approach anyway. Wild animals remain wild animals. But knowledge can grow out of a vague fear. And knowledge leads to respect!
And that’s exactly why I’m now involved with SharkVoice to protect sharks.
Scented Dive—a special form of observation for me
At Protea Banks, so-called “scented dives” are also offered. During these dives, the sharks aren’t fed. Instead, a scent trail is released into the water to attract animals from the surrounding area and bring them closer to the dive site.
For me, it’s crucial to understand what you’re doing and why. Before the dive, there are briefings on proper behavior and positioning.
Personally, I find the opportunity to observe sharks up close for an extended period of time particularly interesting. Not because it’s meant to look spectacular, but because it gives you the chance to truly engage with the animals’ behavior.
And of course, there are dives where the animals behave completely differently than expected! And that’s exactly what makes the experience so special to me!
Perhaps the biggest difference: You never know exactly what’s coming
That might sound trivial at first. But for me, it’s one of the most important points. Anyone who travels to Protea Banks hoping to check off a specific shark species on their personal checklist might be disappointed. There’s no guarantee that the exact shark you’re hoping for will show up. But that’s precisely what I find so exciting and rewarding.
On one dive, bull sharks and ocean blacktips might take center stage. On the next, it might be ragged-tooth sharks. Then suddenly hammerhead sharks—or, with a bit of luck, a tiger shark. And sometimes something completely different shows up.
On one dive, for example, in addition to the sharks, I also encountered a group of about 20 dolphins at a depth of around 20 meters. Encounters like these, in particular, can’t be ordered or planned!
Who will enjoy Protea Banks?
In my opinion, it’s especially for divers who aren’t just looking for another warm reef dive.
If you enjoy open-water diving, can handle currents, have a firm grasp of your gear, and are ready to explore a dynamic dive site, you’ll find an extraordinary destination here.
On the other hand, anyone who’s just started diving or doesn’t yet feel confident with depth and currents should gain some experience first.
And then there’s a second group for whom Protea Banks can be particularly interesting: divers who are already familiar with many shark dive sites and think they’ve got a pretty good idea of what to expect. Was I part of this group myself? Yes, for many years. I’ve already checked off many of the well-known spots on my personal list. And yet, I’m still very surprised.
Sharks underwater, Africa above water
Another reason I keep returning to KwaZulu-Natal lies outside the water.
Protea Banks can be combined with other experiences in the region. After a day with sharks in the Indian Ocean, you can go on a safari the next day.
Giraffes, elephants, and rhinos instead of bull sharks and hammerhead sharks.
It’s precisely this contrast that makes the region so special to me. The trip doesn’t feel like a pure diving vacation, but rather a combination of two completely different nature experiences.
After more than 20 years of diving, I thought I’d already experienced plenty of surprises. Protea Banks has shown me that the ocean still has new surprises in store.
About the Author
Jannik Reisberg is a PADI Divemaster, author of the travel book “Emotional Roller Coaster—422 Days, 27 Countries, 6 Continents,” and the German-speaking contact for Dive In Adventure Tours in South Africa.
Since 2025, he has been traveling regularly to Protea Banks and is involved with SharkVoice in the protection of sharks.