Malawi: Like no other dive destination

Where Freshwater Diving, Wildlife Encounters, and Deep Kindness Meet

More than just a destination, Malawi offers an immersive and deeply felt experience—where diving into a unique freshwater lake seamlessly combines with extraordinary wildlife encounters on the savannah, and where a colourful culture of warmth and kindness transforms your perspective on the world—and your place within it.

Travel Report by  Peter Symes

It wasn’t locking eyes with a wild lion just a few metres away or finally checking off a bucket-list item I have dreamt about since writing my master’s thesis on lake ecology — diving in a unique freshwater lake in the heart of Africa, which left me changed for the better in quite profound ways; it was the people whose overwhelming warmth, kindness, and generosity — despite their apparent poverty — made a deep impression, rekindling a long-suppressed childlike joy of life and sense of being present in the moment, and shifting my perspective on how we go about living our lives in first-world countries. I can’t see how you can help not falling in love with the country and its people. It is for good reason that Malawi is also known as the "warm heart of Africa." I, however, tend to think of it as the "warm hearts" (plural) of Africa.

Malawi is like no other dive destination I have been to because, besides some quite unique diving, it has so much else to offer that almost overshadows the diving experience. Just to state the obvious, where else in the world can you take part in a wildlife drive and encounter lions, elephants, antelopes, hippos, crocs (etc) and also go diving perhaps the same day?

The warmth of the people
The people of Malawi are known for their extraordinary warmth, hospitality, and generosity. Malawi’s population is ethnically diverse, with the Chewa being the largest group, alongside Yao, Tumbuka, Lomwe, and several others. Despite challenges related to poverty, healthcare, and infrastructure, Malawians maintain a strong sense of community and resilience.

Most Malawians live in rural areas and rely heavily on subsistence farming, fishing, and small-scale trade for their livelihoods. Maize is the staple crop, and agriculture supports over 80% of the population. In lakeshore areas, such as those surrounding Lake Malawi, fishing plays a central economic and cultural role. Handicrafts, such as wood carvings and basketry, are also part of the traditional economy and cultural expression.

Malawian culture is deeply rooted in communal values, where mutual support, respect for elders, and extended family networks are central to daily life. Music, dance, and storytelling are integral to both celebrations and social cohesion.

The kindness for which Malawians are renowned may arise from these enduring communal values, the importance of relationships over possessions, and a cultural emphasis on humility and generosity. Even in hardship, many Malawians offer help to others—an ethos that reflects strength, dignity, and a profound sense of humanity. I observed this on several occasions, and it was deeply touching and prompted deep reflection. If the rest of the world learned from the Malawians, we would be in much better shape.

The uniqueness of Lake Malawi
All that being said, it was ultimately for seeing and diving in Lake Malawi that I had travelled all the way to southern Africa, a destination I had known about and longed to visit since I was an undergraduate biology student working on my Master’s thesis on lake ecology. Also known as Lake Nyasa, Lake Malawi is one of Africa’s Great Lakes and the southernmost lake in the East African Rift system. Stretching nearly 580km along the borders of Malawi, Mozambique, and Tanzania, it is the ninth largest lake in the world by area and the third deepest in Africa. But it is not just its size that makes Lake Malawi remarkable—it is its exceptional biodiversity.

The lake is famous for its wide variety of endemic species, especially its cichlid fish. Scientists estimate that Lake Malawi hosts between 800 and 1,000 cichlid species, most of which are found nowhere else on Earth. This remarkable diversity has developed over millions of years through isolated evolution in the lake's various habitats, from rocky shores to sandy floors and vegetated shallows. Many of these fish display specialised behaviours and vibrant colours, leading to Lake Malawi being called an “evolutionary laboratory” for studying speciation and adaptive radiation.

Beyond fish, Lake Malawi supports a diverse ecosystem of invertebrates, aquatic plants, and birdlife. Its waters are clear, warm, and relatively alkaline, creating an environment where species have adapted to very specific ecological niches.

The lake also plays a vital role in the livelihoods of local communities, providing food, transport, and water. However, pressures from overfishing, pollution, invasive species, and climate change pose growing threats to this fragile ecosystem.

Lake Malawi's unique combination of geological history, ecological isolation, and evolutionary processes makes it one of the most important freshwater ecosystems in the world—both scientifically and culturally. Its protection is not just crucial for Malawi, but for global biodiversity conservation efforts.

The Limnology of Lake Malawi
(Editorial note: Limnology is the scientific study of inland aquatic ecosystems, including the biological, chemical, and physical properties of freshwater bodies such as lakes, rivers, and wetlands.)

Lake Malawi is a deep, oligotrophic * rift lake with unique limnological characteristics shaped by its tropical location, tectonic origin, and vertical stratification. At approximately 706 metres deep, it is one of the world's deepest freshwater lakes and contains an estimated 7% of the planet’s available surface freshwater.

(Editorial note: The term oligotrophic describes a body of water, typically a lake, that has low levels of nutrients, particularly nitrogen and phosphorus, resulting in low biological productivity. Oligotrophic waters are usually clear, deep, and well-oxygenated, and they support fewer algae and plant species compared to nutrient-rich (eutrophic) systems. However, they often sustain species adapted to low-nutrient environments, such as cold-water fish like trout.)

One of the lake’s main features is its permanent stratification—a condition known as meromixis. Unlike temperate lakes that mix seasonally, Lake Malawi’s warm surface temperatures prevent complete mixing. Instead, a thermocline develops at around 40–100 metres depth, below which the water becomes progressively colder and anoxic (oxygen-depleted). This stable stratification restricts nutrient cycling from the deeper layers to the surface, helping to maintain the lake's oligotrophic status, characterised by low nutrient levels and clear waters.

Surface waters are well-oxygenated and support a rich photic zone, where sunlight penetrates to significant depths, encouraging algal productivity.
[Editorial note: The photic zone is the upper layer of a body of water—such as a lake or ocean—where sunlight penetrates sufficiently to allow photosynthesis to occur. This zone typically extends from the surface down to a depth where light levels fall to about 1% of the surface intensity, which can range from a few metres in turbid waters to over 200 metres in very clear ones.]

However, primary productivity is relatively modest due to limited nutrient input. Phytoplankton communities are dominated by diatoms, cyanobacteria, and green algae, forming the base of the food web.

Lake Malawi experiences seasonal variation in wind patterns and rainfall, which can cause partial mixing in shallower areas and influence surface productivity. The southern end of the lake, being shallower and more river-fed, tends to be more productive than the northern basin.

The chemistry of the lake is also distinctive. It has a high alkalinity (pH ~8.5–9.0) and elevated concentrations of dissolved minerals such as sodium, potassium, and bicarbonate, primarily due to its geological catchment and lack of outflow. This ionic composition influences species distributions and may have contributed to the rapid speciation of cichlids.

Overall, Lake Malawi’s limnology underpins its remarkable biodiversity and ecosystem stability, but also makes it sensitive to climatic changes and human impact.

First Freshwater National Park
Lake Malawi National Park, a UNESCO World Heritage Site since 1984, is situated at the southern end of Lake Malawi and is the world’s first freshwater national park. Its main aim is to protect the lake’s remarkable aquatic biodiversity, especially its renowned cichlid fish—over 1,000 species, many of which are endemic. These fish are not only crucial to the local ecosystem but have also become symbols of evolutionary science due to their rapid and diverse speciation.  The park encompasses both aquatic and terrestrial zones, including the lake itself, a portion of the surrounding hills, and several islands.

Located within the national park, Cape Maclear (also known locally as Chembe) is a lively fishing village and one of Malawi’s most popular tourist destinations. Backed by verdant hills and fronting a sandy beach, the village has a laid-back, friendly atmosphere. Here, travellers can experience the rhythm of local life—children playing by the shore, dugout canoes slicing through the water, and fishermen hauling in their catch. Cape Maclear also offers accommodations ranging from rustic backpacker lodges to comfortable guesthouses. Activities include kayaking, diving, snorkelling, hiking, and visiting local craft stalls.

Diving Mumbo Island
A short boat ride from Cape Maclear brings you to Mumbo Island, a pristine, uninhabited tropical islet within the national park. Renowned for its eco-friendly lodge and zero-footprint philosophy, Mumbo offers a secluded retreat perfect for nature enthusiasts. The waters surrounding the island are crystal-clear and bustling with colourful cichlids, making it an excellent spot for snorkelling, kayaking, and diving. On land, walking trails meander through baobabs and miombo woodland, providing panoramic views across the lake. With no electricity, roads, or substantial development, Mumbo Island stands as a rare example of responsible tourism in harmony with nature.

As I arrived on the island for a brief visit, a tank and weighbelt were waiting for me, provided by Kayak Africa, which is also the local dive operator. I had brought my own suit, regulator, fins, and other equipment, which I quickly assembled and donned, having already prepared my underwater camera gear in advance. In front of the landing site was a shallow beach with coarse sand, making it easy to wade out and back in the calm water and to put on fins. I submerged and took my first look beneath the surface. At first glance, the surroundings seemed quite barren, but sandy beaches often look like that. I swam out through the small cove, following the rocky coastline on the left. As I went a bit deeper, fish began to appear. There were many different species I was not familiar with. As I swam further out, keeping the boulders of the island to my left, I was struck by the absence of macrophytes – rooted water plants. There was virtually no rooted vegetation, which usually forms the basis of aquatic food webs, and this puzzled me a little, as there were plenty of fish. However, as mentioned above, it is phytoplankton and algae that form the base of the food web in Lake Malawi. I must admit that I found the underwater landscape somewhat desolate and devoid of any colour but also otherworldly fascinating and intriguing. It was certainly a much different and unique diving experience, one I would not want to miss.

As I surfaced, I was greeted by one of the staff who had been following me in a canoe, and was told that lunch was now ready in the main chalet. I quickly got out of my wetsuit and joined my tour group for a delicious meal on a unique island with an amazing view. What a stunning place. I only had a brief stop and a single dive, but it is an experience I will always cherish. I hope I can make it back here on another visit next year.
On the way back to Cape Maclear, I had another short and shallow dive off Thumbi Island, which is just opposite the village. The dive was brief since I had only been provided with a single tank for the day, and I didn’t have much air remaining. But no matter, as I only needed to stay at 3m depth to find myself surrounded by a cloud of cichlids.

When we docked again at the operator’s jetty, we were greeted by a large group of young children dancing and singing for us. It was a delightful and joyful encounter with many smiles and laughs, and even the quite small kids had an impressive sense of rhythm. It was great fun. Afterwards, we strolled through the village, where I purchased a painting I fancied, which is now framed and hanging on the wall in my living room. I also had a bit of playtime with some of the small children who were very inquisitive, and I kicked a football around with some of the young lads. But all too soon, we were heading back to our upscale accommodation, Pumulari Luxury Beach Lodge, which overlooks the lake. The lodge is very lovely and features some fantastic rooms in separate spacious chalets with lake views. While I certainly enjoyed the comfort and facilities, I also felt a bit uneasy about the vast disparity in living standards that I was now experiencing, in contrast to those of many villagers who live in quite basic dwellings. I am not a better human being, nor do I deserve a better life and opportunities than these kind and lovely people, yet there I was in some upper-class surroundings, inside a gated resort, reflecting on the very different lives of the good people I have met. I feel very fortunate to live in Scandinavia, one of the most affluent areas of the world, where the standard of living is very high. I only wish others could have it too, and I wish I could somehow make a difference.

Lake of Stars
Lake Malawi is often poetically called “The Lake of Stars.” This evocative name originates from fishermen’s lanterns: Traditionally, local fishermen use kerosene lanterns on their dugout canoes when fishing at night. Seen from afar—especially from the hills above the lake—these scattered points of light resemble constellations of stars. One evening, I captured such a scene from the balcony of my room. That night, I was also fortunate enough to photograph the centre of the Milky Way, which formed an arch over the lake.

It was a moonless night with clear skies, and using a handy app called PhotoPills, I knew when the galaxy would be directly overhead, around 2:30 in the morning. Having been awake since the early morning, it was a real struggle not to nod off, but I am very pleased I kept awake. Opportunities for astrophotography are rare, and this was a good one.

Wildlife encounters and glowing sunsets
Malawi may be better known for its lake than its savannah, but it offers surprisingly rich and rewarding wildlife encounters—particularly in parks like Liwonde National Park. Located along the Shire River in the south of the country, Liwonde is Malawi’s flagship reserve and a compelling example of successful conservation and rewilding efforts in recent years.

Game drives in Liwonde unfold across diverse landscapes, from lush riverine forests and mopane woodlands to wide floodplains dotted with palm trees. The Shire River, which snakes through the park, provides an essential lifeline for a wide variety of species, and boat safaris are a popular way to observe them.

Wildlife sightings are frequent and often spectacular. Visitors can expect close encounters with large herds of elephants, hippos wallowing in the river, and crocodiles basking on the banks. Thanks to reintroduction programmes led by African Parks, the park is now home to lions, cheetahs, and black rhinos, making Liwonde one of the few places in Malawi where the Big Five can be seen. Antelope species such as kudu, sable and waterbuck are common, and birdlife is exceptional, with over 400 species recorded—including fish eagles, kingfishers, and the elusive Pel’s fishing owl.

What makes wildlife encounters in Malawi especially memorable is their sense of intimacy. Visitor numbers are relatively low compared to more famous African parks, which means fewer vehicles at sightings and a more serene, immersive experience. Whether on a game drive, boat safari or guided walk, Liwonde offers a rare chance to observe wildlife in a setting that feels truly wild—and deeply personal.

It was in the early hours that I had the best encounters, so I was, very uncharacteristically for me, up before dawn to be taken on a game drive as the sun rose over the savannah and the animals had not yet sought shade. I was the only one on the drive, and my guide and driver, Milton, had remarkable knowledge of the wildlife, and I had many questions. We instantly connected, and I spent the next few hours simply listening to his explanations. At one point, as we were bumping along the trails, he suddenly hit the brakes and reversed the vehicle. There, in the undergrowth, less than 10m from me, was a male lion making direct eye contact. I didn’t think or fear that it saw me as potential prey, as most wild animals prefer to stick to their usual diet and well-known prey, which is also why humans can often swim around large sharks. That said, I cannot help thinking that such a fixed stare from a crouching lion about to pounce would be the last sight some hapless antelope would see before becoming a meal.

Colours and garments
Malawian women are widely recognised for their vibrant and colourful traditional attire, especially the chitenje—a rectangular piece of printed cotton fabric worn in various ways. The chitenje (plural: zitenje) is wrapped around the waist like a skirt, draped over the shoulder, or used to carry babies on the back. It is both practical and expressive, often seen in daily life as well as during special occasions.

Zitenje are typically decorated with bold, bright colours and intricate patterns, frequently featuring floral motifs, geometric shapes, or symbolic imagery. Many also display proverbs, political messages, or social commentary along the border—serving as a form of visual communication. The colours tend to be rich and contrasting: deep reds, yellows, cobalt blues, greens, and purples are common, each contributing to a lively, expressive appearance.

The origins of zitenje fabric trace back to Indian and Arab traders along the East African coast, and later to Dutch wax prints, which were introduced through colonial trade routes. Over time, these textiles were adapted into a uniquely African aesthetic and cultural tradition. Today, Malawian women often choose zitenje that reflect personal taste, family identity, or community affiliation, and they are proudly worn at weddings, funerals, political rallies, church services, and in everyday life.

In essence, zitenje are more than garments—they embody cultural identity, storytelling, and creative expression.

Other activities and attractions
I was only in Malawi for a short but intense week, so needless to say, I could only explore a few of the many sights, adventures, and experiences the country has to offer, and no single article can do it justice. In addition to diving and wildlife safaris, Malawi offers a wealth of experiences that reflect its rich landscapes and cultural heritage. Visitors can hike through forested highlands like Mount Mulanje and the Zomba Plateau, explore vibrant local markets, or take part in cultural village tours. The lake itself invites kayaking, snorkelling among colourful cichlids, or simply relaxing on quiet beaches. Birdwatchers and nature lovers will find rewarding encounters in national parks and upland plateaus, while tranquil island retreats such as Likoma and Mumbo offer a slower pace and scenic beauty. Together, these activities reveal the diversity and charm of the Warm Heart of Africa.

This article originally appeared in X-Ray Mag.