Crystal clear waters in the heart of Italy

Freshwater diving à la carte: “Unknown Italy”

Anyone who has ever dived in the beautiful Lake Samaranger knows what it means to dive in a clear lake. I would never have thought that this could be topped until I visited Franz Pramendorfer at Traunfall and saw the pictures from Lago di Capo d'Acqua. The small lake is located in the middle of Abruzzo and thus also in the center of Italy. The pictures of the sunken mill fascinated me so much that I immediately booked a tour with Franz.

Report by Gerald Nowak

It's early May and I'm on my way with my diving buddy Peter to meet Franz Pramendorfer and his friend Franz Hajek at Capestrano. Our accommodation is idyllically located directly above the lake in a vineyard far away from the noise of the city and in absolute tranquility. A perfect start to the tour and mental preparation for the dives ahead in the next few days.
The very next day, we experience the Italian mentality firsthand. The gates to the diving center are supposed to open at around 9 a.m., and we wait in front of the entrance, because the first group is the first to enter the water. As more groups arrive, we start to worry that there will be too many divers in the water. At around 10 a.m., the owner of the diving center arrives at the gate, completely relaxed, and calmly explains that we don't need to worry. He only allows one group in the lake at a time so that there isn't too much disturbance and the water remains clear for as long as possible.

Just a few meters from the densely vegetated shore, you can reach the sunken remains of two mills. Before the small reservoir was flooded, they stood at the source of the Tireno, but when it was decided in 1964 to dam the source in order to have a secure supply of water for irrigating the fields even in the dry season, they were virtually submerged in the lake. Today, the remaining walls are a perfect backdrop for divers and underwater photographers. We do two dives before packing up our things in the afternoon and hanging everything up to dry in our nearby accommodation, then driving over to Capestrano. The town gradually developed on the hill around the castle complex after the castle was built in the 13th century. Today, like many communities in the region, the town is falling into disrepair. It is not only the last earthquake in 2017 that has caused many residents to flee to other regions. Today, only about 800 people still live here, but the town and the valley have their charm. The climate is mild and the nights are pleasantly cool, even in early summer. We enjoy a lively late afternoon with a delicious Italian snack and let the day come to a leisurely end. The vacation can begin.

After a leisurely breakfast, we head west towards Stiffe. There we visit a small stalactite cave. The cave system is not particularly large, but very impressive, as you can walk far into the mountain along an underground stream. We have a lot of fun and enough time to take great photos. The subsequent visit to a small traditional trattoria becomes the highlight of the day. The owner's mother cooks for us and we get to taste homemade pasta.

In the afternoon, we continue on to Posta Fibreno, where we will spend the next four nights. Lago Fibreno is located right next to our accommodation, with a deep spring pool and a crystal-clear tributary. As soon as we arrive, we jump into the small tributary at a mill. It is only a few meters deep, but super clear and covered with vegetation. Right at the entrance, there is a large sign: No diving. Franz just laughs: “Of course we can dive. Armando, my Italian friend and biologist, has made that clear for us.” Yes, what connections in life can make possible.

“Of course we're allowed to dive here...”

Both the tributary and the reservoir of the old mill are a visual paradise for photographers. Densely overgrown with a wide variety of underwater plants and small fish here and there. A family of nutria also lives here, but unfortunately I can't get them in front of my lens. The water is quite cool, and at only 11 degrees Celsius in a 7mm wetsuit, it feels quite chilly after just a short time. Since we will be spending several days here, I retreat after half an hour and leave the small pool and stream to the others in the group. Thanks to the steady inflow, the particles I stirred up disappear quickly, and the other photographers also have perfect visibility.

We spend the next day at the lake and the inflow of Lago Fibreno. Towards evening, we go up to the village of Posta Fibreno, where we have a magnificent view over the valley. From here, you can also see the “floating island” that drifts around in the south of Lago Fibreno, depending on the wind. Yes, this island really floats, and swimming there has its pitfalls.

Springs in Lago Volcano bubble like small volcanoes

The next day, we travel far south past the town of Cassino to Lago Vulcano. The small pond is located in the middle of the village and is normally not open to divers. We are only allowed to enter the water here with special permission and under supervision. The water from the spring here is incredibly clear. Small springs bubble up from the ground like little volcanoes. The heavy sand immediately sinks back down and the water remains clear. The springs are surrounded by dense vegetation, giving the scenery an almost tropical feel, were it not for the refreshingly cool water. My computer reads only 10 degrees. With 7mm neoprene, it gets pretty chilly here too. But I'm not the only one who doesn't want to miss out on two dives. When else do you get the chance to dive in such amazing waters, even if they are only a few meters deep?

In the afternoon, we return to Posta Fibreno via the Montecassino monastery. A visit to the monastery is an absolute must. Its history is a story in itself. Back at Lago Fibreno, we spend another day. But it's not just the dives here that are breathtaking, it's also the warmth of the people and the great cuisine of the region. I could stay for weeks.

On the penultimate day of our trip, we leave Abruzzo and drive far south, almost to Naples, to Fiume Cipolla. Here, there is a small flour mill right next to a stream that has it all. Not only are parts of the stream densely covered with slime algae, but there are also mullet swimming around in large schools. The obligatory purchase of freshly ground flour after the dives is of course also part of the experience. In the early afternoon, we head to a restaurant right by the sea. Fish lovers are in for a treat here. It offers the best of the nearby sea and Italian cuisine. Well fed, we now have to drive a few more kilometers to Narni. The town is located north of Abruzzo, not far from the highway. We spend one last night here and visit the medieval town in the evening. The final dinner is another culinary highlight of the trip.

Before heading home on the last day, we want to dive once more and visit another partially sunken mill. Here, too, there is a retention basin where you can dive. Although only a good five meters deep and just under 30 meters long, there are new things to discover here. The algae grow from the bottom to the surface, and the visibility is absolutely transparent. The weir leads to the adjacent reservoir, which is largely covered with a thick layer of algae. Underneath the layer of algae floating on the surface, the visibility is crystal clear, so that the sun's rays cut through the few openings in the floating algae like laser beams. What a great photo opportunity.

Of course, on a trip with Franz Pramendorfer, it's not possible to simply end a tour with a farewell. Before we all make our way back home, we visit one last trattoria. Instead of “unknown Italy,” the theme of the trip could also be “delightful Italy.”

Franz knows how to live and enjoy life. Even though diving is the focus of the trip, culture and enjoyment are always super important topics. That's what makes diving and traveling fun!